Day 1: The tour begins this evening for our introductory meeting and dinner. Night in Durban.

Day 2: Our first morning will find us traversing the spectacular Hella-Hella Pass on our way towards the Drakensberg Mountains. Our main target today is the stately Montane Blue Swallow, a species that has suffered staggering population declines due to habitat loss. We’ll visit a private farm where several pairs breed in inconspicuous sinkholes in pristine grasslands. Other species present in this upland grassland include Fan-tailed Grassbird, Red-necked Spurfowl, African Yellow-Warbler, and Orange-throated Longclaw. This area also plays host to several species of flufftails, an elusive family of birds, and we’ll try our luck with Red-chested, Buff-spotted, and Striped, which all breed in the area.

Down the road the Mkomazi River bridge is an excellent spot to revel in the views and perhaps spot an African Finfoot on the river below. We’ll also watch for Knysna Turaco, African Emerald Cuckoo, Rock-loving Cisticola, and a variety of raptors namely Long-crested Eagle, Jackal Buzzard, and Verreaux’s Eagle.

Around Himeville, our base for the next two nights, we’ll spend time in the late afternoon birding some rural roads where we hope to find Denham’s Bustard, Half-colored Kingfisher, and three species of cranes – Gray Crowned, Blue, and Wattled. Night in Himeville.

Day 3: One of the most exciting days of the trip, we’ll switch over to 4x4s and head up the spectacular Sani Pass towards the landlocked nation of Lesotho. Beginning in the lower Sani Valley, we’ll make plenty of stops targeting Wahlberg’s Honeyguide, Rufous-necked Wryneck, Buff-streaked Chat, Gurney’s Sugarbird, Bush Blackcap, and Barratt’s Warbler in the thickets along the river. Scanning the valley may also turn up a Mountain Reedbuck, Eland, or Gray Rhebok. Higher up the landscape becomes rockier and near the border we start to target Drakensberg Rockjumper, Drakensberg Siskin, Mountain Pipit, and Ground Woodpecker.

After reaching the top at 9,500 feet we’ll cross into Lesotho where we can spot some of the endemic Sloggett’s Ice Rats, which inhabit the area around the Lesotho border checkpoint. The rest of the afternoon will be spent targeting Bearded Vulture, Cape Griffon, Fairy Flycatcher, Gray Tit, Layard’s Warbler, Karoo Scrub-Robin, and Sickle-winged Chat to name a few. Our picnic lunch spot often hosts Yellow-tufted Pipit, which we’ll keep a lookout for.

After lunch we’ll descend back down the mountain picking up anything we may have missed along the way. If Short-tailed Pipits are around, we’ll make an effort to see this often-difficult species. Night in Himeville.

Day 4: Leaving the highlands behind, we’ll head back down towards the coast and work our way up towards the small town of Eshowe. North of Durban, coastal forest host Black-throated Wattle-eye and Southern Tchagra, and we should also see some of our first shorebirds such as Common Ringed and White-fronted Plovers and African Oystercatcher.

Once in Eshowe, we will drop our bags and head to the Dlinza Forest, which offers a series of trails along with a canopy boardwalk and tower. Spotted Ground-Thrush is our main target in this forest and we’ll focus our attention on this denizen of the forest floor. We also stand a chance at spotting Delegorgue’s Pigeons flying by from the canopy tower or perhaps hear one calling above one of the trails. This forest can be productive, and we may also find Scaly-throated Honeyguide, White-eared Barbet, and perhaps a Green-backed Twinspot. Aside from birds, Natal Red Duikers are fairly common in this forest and can be considerably tame. Night in Eshowe.

Day 5: This morning we’ll return to Dlinza Forest if we are missing anything before driving to Ngoye Forest, which holds an isolated population of Green Barbets. Narina Trogons are common here and we also stand a chance at spotting Tambourine Dove, Crowned Eagle, and with luck, an Eastern Nicator. As we depart the forest, we drive through some stunning rocky grasslands, which host Croaking Cisticolas and Fan-tailed Grassbirds, before dropping down into the coastal town of Mtunzini, where the southernmost breeding population of Palm-nut Vultures can be found. The nearby Umlalazi Lagoon holds Goliath Heron, African Woolly-necked Stork, Mouse-colored Sunbird, and expressive Purple-crested Turacos.

Once in St. Lucia, we’ll check into our accommodation and bird the nearby iGwalagwala Trail, which translates to ‘turaco’, and indeed we’ll have an excellent chance at finding Livingstone’s Turaco. Other possible species include Woodward’s Batis, Rudd’s Apalis, Green Malkhoa and Green-backed Twinspot to name a few. The nearby Mfolozi River mouth can be very productive with shorebirds, waterbirds, gulls and terns. Vagrants turn up here all the time, almost more than anywhere else in the country! So, we’ll devote some time to see what we may find ourselves. In the past these have included Sooty Tern, Eurasian Oystercatcher, and Saunders’s Tern. After dinner we’ll head to a nearby spot where we will try our luck on finding a Swamp Nightjar. Night in St. Lucia.

Day 6: We’ll depart early for iSimangaliso Wetland Park, which is only a few minutes from our guesthouse. This large reserve comprises of vital wetlands surrounded by coastal forests and grasslands making this one of the most important breeding bird areas in the region. We’ll work our way towards Cape Vital birding along the way where we may find Black-bellied Starling, Pale-crowned Cisticola, and perhaps a Fasciated Snake-Eagle along the roadside. Several wetlands can host a number of African Jacanas and African Pygmy Goose, and we may spot something more unusual such as Lesser Jacana or Rufous-bellied Heron. At Cape Vidal, where the road ends, we’ll search for any of the littoral forest endemics we have yet to see such as Woodward’s Batis and Brown Scrub-Robin along with Rudd’s Apalis and Black-tailed Waxbill. Being a large game reserve, mammals are also well represented, and we may spot our first elephants, zebra, rhinos, hippos, and a few antelope too such as Common Reedbuck. Night in St. Lucia.

Day 7: Departing St. Lucia, we’ll work our way north along the coast and our destination for the next two nights: Mkhuze. Along the way we’ll look for the localized Lemon-breasted Seedeater, which is partial to the Llala Palms in the region.

In the afternoon we’ll continue onward to Mkhuze Game Reserve. This game reserve, located in northern Zululand, is without a doubt one of the best birding reserves in all of Southern Africa. Boasting a list that surpasses 450 species of birds and a host of mammals including both White and Black Rhino, Leopard, Nyala and even Suni… we’ll accumulate quite a list! We’ll have the second half of today to get a feel for just how remarkable this area is. Night in Mkuze.

Day 8: We’ll have a full day to explore all corners of Mkuze and will probably have our largest day list of the whole tour. We’ll visit a variety of habitats ranging from the foothills of the Lebombo Mountains down to riverine forests, sand forests, and a variety of woodlands and acacia savanna in between. We will focus primarily on birding the sand forest where we stand a great chance at finding Pink-throated Twinspot, the highly localized Neergard’s Sunbird, along with African Broadbill and Eastern Nicator. Pel’s Fishing-Owl occurs in the park, and we may organize a walking trip to see it. If we hadn’t caught up with African Pygmy-Goose by now, we’ll head to the nearby Muzi Pan, which usually hosts a number of these diminutive geese and perhaps something unusual like an Allen’s Gallinule or Lesser Moorhen. Night in Mkuze.

Day 9: Today we’ll skirt the southern border of the country of Eswatini on our way to the sleepy village of Wakkerstroom, a premier birding region that is highly regarded across all of Southern Africa. We’ll head to the Wakkerstroom Wetlands on the edge of town where we can expect South African Shelducks, Southern Pochard, African Swamphen, and perhaps African Marsh Harrier, Little Bittern, and Purple Heron. Closer to dusk we’ll attempt to see a couple of the more elusive species including Red-chested Flufftail and African Rail. Spotted-necked Otters are often present, and we’ll keep an eye out for these as they splash around in the marsh! Night in Wakkerstroom.

Day 10: Wakkerstroom is one of those areas that simply can’t be skipped on any birding trip to eastern South Africa. It is no wonder that it’s an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area. The region is mostly comprised of high-montane grassland, and with that, a good number of endemic and near-endemic birds. We’ll pick up a local Birdlife South Africa guide, who has the latest tabs on where they may be found, who will join us for a full day birding this fabulous area.

Wakkerstroom is most famous for its larks, and we’ll devote a good amount of time focusing on Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks, two endangered South African endemics. We’ll also focus on the vulnerable Yellow-breasted Pipit, which feeds much like a rodent close to the ground.

Also possible today are Red-winged and Gray-winged Francolin, White-bellied and Blue Bustards, Southern Bald Ibis, Rufous-necked Wryneck, Ground Woodpecker, Eastern Long-billed and Pink-billed Larks, South African Swallow, Black-winged Lapwing, and Quailfinch to name a few. Mammal possibilities include Yellow Mongoose and the charming Meerkat. Night in Wakkerstroom.

Day 11: After breakfast we’ll continue north and work our way towards the legendary Kruger National Park. Covering over 7,500 sq miles, Kruger is world-renowned for its mammal and bird diversity. Mammals include the ‘Big Five’ (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo) along with a large assortment of other mammals. On the bird front, over 500 species have been recorded within the park boundaries. We’ll switch over into an open-top safari vehicle, which we’ll have for our entire Kruger experience. This allows for better viewing and photography.

Crossing the Crocodile River bridge, we’ll continue north through the park. The more densely vegetated region of southern Kruger hosts the largest populations of African Wild Dogs and we’ll certainly keep our eyes peeled. Not far from Skukuza Camp, our base for the next two nights, is a productive bird hide on a small lake. Here is an excellent location for photographic opportunities where we may see Water Thick-knee, Pied Kingfisher, Black Crake, Striated Heron, various weavers, and other birds right up close along with Nile Crocodiles. Nearby is a native plant nursery which doubles as an excellent place to walk around where White-browed and Red-capped Robin-Chats, Collared Sunbird, and Spectacled Weaver can be found.

If time allows, we’ll take a short evening driving loop returning before the camp gates close. This area hosts a dense population of Leopards and we stand a good chance at finding one. Night at Skukuza Camp.

Day 12: With the full day to explore the southern region, we’ll depart early and bird along the Sabie River. This waterway can be very productive and can provide views of a good number of vultures including Hooded and White-headed as well as Broad-billed Roller, White-crowned Lapwing, Goliath Heron, and with luck, African Finfoot. This is also a productive area for mammals, especially elephants and leopards. We’ll eventually make it to breakfast at another camp, where we’ll constantly be distracted as we eat on a balcony overlooking the river.

The rest of the morning will be spent completing the ‘golden triangle’, a very productive route that has earned its nickname by the high number of mammals that can be seen along it, most notably cats. Perhaps we’ll stumble upon a Cheetah?

After lunch, we’ll decide what birds and mammals we still hadn’t seen yet and scheme up a plan for the second half of the day. Perhaps we’ll drive a loop to the west or take a more relaxed approach and bird around Skukuza Camp, which boasts an impressive list of birds in its own right! Night at Skukuza Camp.

Day 13: Today we’ll travel north into the central Kruger region, which is comprised or more open savanna habitat. Satara Camp, our home base for the next two nights, is a prime area for Lions and we’ll try to track down some along the way. The camp itself has a water hole just outside the fence and at dusk we can watch Double-banded Sandgrouse come to drink along with the occasional Black-backed Jackal. Within the camp we may even stumble upon one of the resident African Wild Cats that call the camp home. Night at Satara Camp.

Day 14: On this morning, those who are awake early enough may spot a Honey Badger, which does its rounds visiting all of trash bins around camp before dawn. We’ll depart early and spend the day birding the more open savanna to the north, which is home to some of the larger species to be found such as Common Ostrich, Kori Bustard, Secretarybird, and the largest hornbill in the region, Southern Ground-Hornbill. This open habitat is also home to Gray-backed Sparrowlark, Temminck’s Courser, palearctic shrikes such as Red-backed and Lesser Gray, and in some years, Harlequin Quail and Common Buttonquail.

Further north we’ll divert our attention to two bird-rich riverine systems, the Olifants and Letaba Rivers. Here we can expect Saddle-billed and Yellow-billed Storks, African Openbill, Collared Pratincole, African Fish-Eagle, and White-fronted Bee-eaters. We’ll also see crocodiles and hippos along with various mammals coming in to drink during the heat of the day.

After dinner, we’ll join a night drive where we hope to see Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, perhaps a courser or two, and with luck one of the big cats: lion, cheetah, and leopard. Night at Satara Camp.

Day 15: Our final morning in Kruger, we will slowly work our way west towards the Orpen Gate before heading exiting the park and heading into the mountainous region of Magoebaskfloof and Tzaneen. At the northern edge of the Drakensberg Escarpment, this area has a wide diversity of species, and we’ll have the rest of today and all day tomorrow exploring the Afromontane forests and surrounding habitats.

Much of the area is covered in tree plantations, but one site in particular hosts a breeding pair of Bat Hawks and we’ll make a special stop to see this uncommon species. We’ll also bird around Tzaneen targeting a few more scarce species such as Magpie Mannikin, before checking into our accommodation near Magoebaskloof. Night at Magoebaskloof.

Day 16: Waking up to the sound of the dawn chorus right out our windows, we’ll spend the morning enjoying arguably the best forest birding South Africa has to offer. The main targets we’ll be after are Black-fronted Bushshrike, the endangered Cape Parrot, and a whole host of forest species including Orange Ground-Thrush, Chorister Robin-Chat, White-starred Robin, Gray Cuckooshrike, Barratt’s Warbler, African Black-headed Oriole, and we may even hear a Buff-spotted Flufftail right outside our rooms. With the full day devoted to forest birding, we should be able to clean up on our targets and perhaps have some extra time to bird some surrounding areas as well. Night at Magoebaskloof.

Day 17: This morning we’ll head west towards Polokwane and will spend the remainder part of the day birding the game reserve, home to the highly localized Short-clawed Lark. The acacia thickets and surrounding arid thornveld is also home to Burnt-necked Eremomela, Chestnut-vented Warbler, Marico Flycatcher, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Shaft-tailed Wydah, Violet-eared Waxbill, and Great Rufous Sparrow. The game reserve also hosts a good selection of mammals including Tsessebe, Sable, and Gemsbok. Night in Polokwane.

Day 18: We’ll depart Polokwane and head south, working our way towards Zaagkuilsdrift Road.  This quiet gravel road offers exceptional ‘bushveld’ birding and we’ll spend much of the day birding this very productive road. Despite being near the end of the tour, this area still holds a host of species that we wouldn’t have seen before including White-quilled Bustard, Pale Chanting-Goshawk, and Southern Pied Babbler. Southern Penduline-Tit, Scaly Weaver, Great Rufous Sparrow, Ashy Tit, and Barred Wren-Warbler are also regular and we’ll keep an eye out for these if we haven’t caught up with them by now.

After lunch, we’ll slowly bird our way back along the Zaagkuilsdrift Road towards the main road before continuing south to Johannesburg, where we’ll stay near the airport. Night in Johannesburg.

Day 19: Depending on flight schedules, and if time permits, we’ll visit Marievale Bird Sanctuary on the outskirts of Johannesburg. This productive wetland area hosts an impressive number and variety of waterbirds such as Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Cape Teal, Red-billed Ducks, Pied Avocet, African Snipe, Marsh Sandpiper, and usually large numbers of Ruff and Little Stints. Capped Wheatears are also common here if we hadn’t caught up with any prior.

The tour ends with flights home.

2024 Narrative

IN BRIEF: South Africa consistently ranks as one of the top destinations for birders, and for good reason. The country's exceptional bird diversity, remarkable mammals, well-maintained road networks, mouthwatering cuisine, and comfortable accommodations all contribute to its reputation as a must-visit location. This trip was a resounding success, with nearly 430 bird species and dozens of mammal species spotted. We had the chance to explore a wide range of habitats, from high-altitude grasslands and Afromontane forests to arid bushveld, savannas, coastal dune forests, estuaries, and beaches. It’s no wonder that so many people find themselves returning to South Africa again and again for more.

IN DETAIL: The tour kicked off in Durban, a coastal city along the Indian Ocean, before we set off for Underberg, nestled at the base of the towering Drakensberg Mountains. The weather was ominous, with rain threatening on the horizon, but we had some time at our first stop—a nature reserve just outside the city—to squeeze in some birding before the skies opened up. Our primary target here was the Fan-tailed Grassbird, which we easily found along a damp, grassy hillside. We also spotted an African Paradise-Flycatcher, Olive Thrush, Purple-crested Turaco, and a particularly cooperative Greater Double-collared Sunbird.

From there, we pressed inland, making a stop at Midmar Dam, where our luck held, and the rain held off. The dam was teeming with waterfowl, including Yellow-billed Ducks, African Darter, African Fish-Eagle, and a variety of shorebirds—Three-banded Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, and Little Stint. The surrounding grasslands were alive with Levaillant’s and Zitting Cisticolas, Little Rush-Warbler, African Stonechat, Pin-tailed Whydah, and showy Fan-tailed and Long-tailed Widowbirds.

Eventually, we reached Underberg, where we had time for a productive driving loop. Highlights included White-backed Duck, Southern Anteater-Chat, Amethyst Sunbird, South African Shelduck, and all three species of South African cranes—Blue, Gray Crowned, and Wattled. Afterward, we checked into our comfortable hotel and took a brief walk around the grounds, adding Black and Red-chested Cuckoos, Speckled Mousebird, African Black-headed Oriole, African Hoopoe, Southern Black-Tit, and a pair of Southern Bald Ibis flying overhead, along with numerous other species.

The next morning, the real adventure began as we piled into 4x4s for the steep ascent of the rugged Sani Pass, which winds its way up into the highlands of Lesotho. The weather was on our side, and with it, our ambitious list of target species seemed within reach. As we climbed through the lower sections of the pass, we ticked off new sightings including Long-crested Eagle, Red-throated Wryneck, Cape Batis, Bokmakierie, Drakensberg Prinia, African Yellow Warbler, Barratt’s Warbler, Bush Blackcap, Cape Rock-Thrush, Buff-streaked Chat, Malachite Sunbird, and Nicholson’s Pipit, along with Southern Reedbuck for our mammal list.

The further we ascended, the more dramatic the scenery became, with each switchback revealing jaw-dropping views of the mountains and valleys. Crossing into Lesotho, the landscape shifted to alpine terrain, and we were fortunate to spot the endemic Sloggett’s Ice Rat, a tough little mammal that thrives in the frigid highlands. Venturing deeper into the landlocked kingdom, we added new species like Jackal Buzzard, Large-billed Lark, Sickle-winged Chat, Mountain Pipit, and a large flock of Drakensberg Siskins.

Staying ahead of the weather, we pressed on into Lesotho, adding Cape Griffon, Ground Woodpecker, the much-anticipated Drakensberg Rockjumper, Fairy Flycatcher, Gray Tit, Karoo Prinia, Layard’s Warbler, Sentinel and Cape Rock-Thrushes, Yellow-tufted Pipit, and two Bearded Vultures, among many others. After a delicious picnic and checking off nearly all our target species, we began our descent down the pass, heading back to the hotel.

The next morning, we found ourselves in a small patch of indigenous forest, ready to search for some of the elusive and tricky residents of this dense habitat. A brief hour-long walk yielded Knysna Turaco, Narina Trogon, Gray Cuckooshrike, Terrestrial Brownbul, Chorister Robin-Chat, Orange Ground-Thrush, Dark-backed Weaver, Forest Canary, and a charming little flock of Swee Waxbills.

Our next stop was a private reserve, home to the critically endangered Montane Blue Swallow—a species that has suffered a dramatic decline due to habitat loss and other environmental pressures. After a moderately challenging walk through a picturesque grassland, we set up at a prime spot and were rewarded with exceptional views of a pair of these striking birds, as they flew gracefully around us. Other highlights included Rock-loving and Wailing Cisticolas, Olive Bushshrike, and the calls of Red-winged Francolins echoing from a nearby hillside, though they remained frustratingly out of sight.

After a delightful lunch at a tucked-away café, we continued our drive toward Eshowe, making one final stop at Bisley Valley Nature Reserve. Our main target here was the Southern Tchagra, and we were not disappointed. In addition to the tchagra, we encountered our first Dideric and Klaas’s Cuckoos, Lesser Honeyguide, Chinspot Batis, Fiscal Flycatcher, White-bellied Sunbird, and Grosbeak Weaver, among several other species. Just as we were nearing our accommodation, a Black Goshawk swooped overhead, a nice addition to the day.

On the edge of town lies the well-preserved Dlinza Forest. We arrived early, spending a couple of hours before breakfast exploring the forest's tranquil trails. Our primary goal was to find the elusive Spotted Ground-Thrush. With careful footsteps and quiet patience, we made our way along the paths, listening intently for any sign of movement eventually being rewarded with exceptional views of this stunning denizen of the forest. Other highlights in the forest included Rameron Pigeon, Green Woodhoopoe, Trumpeter Hornbill, Yellow-throated Woodland-Warbler, Red-capped Robin-Chat, and a vocal Scaly-throated Honeyguide.

Having already encountered most of the other resident forest species, we moved on to a nearby bird hide where they place seed on the ground for doves. Here, we added Tambourine and Lemon Doves to our growing list, both species offering up-close views. We then headed towards Ngoye Forest, a pristine enclave of verdant woodland that is home to South Africa's sole population of Green Barbets. After a brief search, we were rewarded with an excellent view of a pair. Other notable species observed included Trumpeter Hornbills, Square-tailed Drongos, and a Mouse-colored Sunbird.

While enjoying lunch and much-anticipated coffees in the town of Mtunzini, the restaurant owners alerted us that a Sharp-tailed Sandpiper was spotted recently nearby at the Umlalazi Nature Reserve. This was a first record for South Africa! We quickly devoured our meals and rushed over. Upon arrival, we joined a group of eager birders and made our way down a muddy road to a mudflat area, where we were greeted by a variety of shorebirds. Among the many Common Ringed Plovers, Little Stints, and Wood Sandpipers, the highly cooperative Sharp-tailed Sandpiper was easily visible, along with an unexpected bonus—a Terek Sandpiper.

After a successful and exhilarating sighting, we took a more leisurely walk back to the vehicle, adding a few more species to our list: Red-billed Duck, White-eared Barbet, African Golden-Weaver, and a distant Palm-nut Vulture—found only in this small region of South Africa, and usually the main target species when a first-country record isn't in the mix! Before leaving, we made a quick stop at a reliable spot for Brown-throated Wattle-eye, where we were treated to excellent views of a pair. We then continued our journey toward St Lucia for the night, but not before spotting a Southern Banded Snake-Eagle in Mtunzini—an excellent bird for the area to cap off the day.

We arrived at iSimangaliso Wetland Park early in the morning, eager to explore this vast, ecologically rich haven. Spanning over 3,300 square kilometers, the park is a true mosaic of habitats, ranging from the pristine sandy beaches and coastal forests along the Indian Ocean to lush inland forests, wetlands, and expansive grasslands. This incredible variety of ecosystems makes iSimangaliso one of South Africa’s most biodiverse regions, and we were excited to spend the entire morning immersing ourselves in its natural beauty.

Our first stop was a quiet hide overlooking a tranquil wetland, where we enjoyed a leisurely picnic breakfast. From this vantage point, we were fortunate to spot two locally uncommon Rufous-bellied Herons and a vibrant African Pygmy-Kingfisher perched nearby. As we continued toward Cape Vidal—the end of the park’s main road—we encountered a wealth of new species. Highlights included African Pygmy-Goose, Black-bellied Bustard, African Jacana, African Woolly-necked Stork, Hamerkop, and several raptors: Southern Banded, Black-chested, and Brown Snake-Eagles. We also added Little Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Rufous-winged and Croaking Cisticolas, Yellow-throated Longclaw, and Red-billed Oxpeckers to our growing list.

Alongside the impressive birding, the park’s diverse mammals provided plenty of entertainment: Plains Zebra, Common Warthog, Impala, Blue Wildebeest, Natal Red Duiker, African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Greater Kudu, and Waterbuck. 

We eventually reached Cape Vidal and set off on foot in search of several highly localized specialties, and our efforts were rewarded as we successfully located Rudd’s Apalis, Woodward’s Batis, and Brown Scrub-Robin. We returned to town and took a short afternoon break in order to keep well rested for the many early starts this tour requires.

Later in the afternoon, we took a short drive to a nearby trail that wound through a beautiful patch of forest. This walk rewarded us with sightings of Southern Crested Guineafowl, Green Malkoha, Crowned Hornbill, Eastern Nicator, and Purple-banded Sunbird. The highlight, however, was a breathtaking Livingstone’s Turaco, which perched on an exposed branch for an extended time, offering us incredible, close-up views. As dusk settled in, we capped off the outing with a Fiery-necked Nightjar before rounding out the day with an excellent seafood dinner.

One of the prime attractions of birding in the St Lucia region is the Mfolozi River Mouth, which frequently hosts national rarities. Thus, we set out early the next morning for a visit to the mouth, which was closed off from the ocean. Despite this, we were greeted with a good diversity of roosting birds. Great Crested Terns were the most numerous, while smaller numbers of Little, Common, Caspian, and a lone Lesser Crested Tern were also present. Shorebird activity was relatively modest during this visit, but we still tallied seven species including our first African Oystercatcher, White-fronted and Black-bellied Plovers, Whimbrel, and Ruddy Turnstone. Other highlights were African Marsh-Harrier flying over the marsh, Southern Brown-throated Weaver hanging out in the reeds and Brimstone Canaries working the vegetated sand dunes. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent leisurely making our way toward Mkhuze. Along the way, we stopped at a stakeout spot for the localized Lemon-breasted Seedeater. It didn’t take long before we spotted one foraging along a grassy fence line, while European Bee-eaters perched on the powerlines above, showing off their vibrant colors. We then stopped for lunch at a charming restaurant nestled in the bush, where excellent garden birding kept us entertained. We enjoyed sightings of Red-faced Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Spectacled Weaver, and Yellow-throated Bush Sparrow.

Afterward, we continued on to a comfortable lodge near Mkhuze Game Reserve. After a week of early mornings and long days of birding, the luxury of this upscale lodge was a welcome reprieve, allowing us to relax and recharge with a much-needed early evening. But even with the promise of rest, we couldn’t resist a walk around the grounds, which offered views of a lily pad-covered lake. There, we spotted African Swamphen, Pied Kingfisher, Yellow-rumped and Southern Red-fronted Tinkerbirds, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Wire-tailed Swallow, Ashy Flycatcher, and Collared Sunbird. We then wrapped up the day with a hearty meal at the lodge’s impressive buffet dinner.

Rested and refreshed, we departed our lodge at 5:30 a.m., equipped with packed breakfasts and lunches to maximize our time at Mkhuze Game Reserve. Mkhuze, spanning 155 square miles, is renowned for its birding, with a species list exceeding 400. After entering the park, we already started finding new species including Common Scimitarbill, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Willow Warbler, and Pied Barbet. The next couple hours were spent exploring a sand forest area, known for hosting a couple localized species we hoped to encounter. Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Four-colored Bushshrike, and Cape Starling were added to the list along with our main targets, the attractive Pink-throated Twinspot, the localized Black-tailed Waxbill, and the very difficult Neergaard’s Sunbird—sadly the latter was heard only and just would not show itself.

The afternoon was spent visiting several hides and lookout points around Nsuto Pan. Water levels notably high and Hippos were numerous, along with nice sightings of Black Crake, Goliath Heron, Pink-backed Pelican, Whiskered Tern, and three species of kingfishers—Giant, Pied, and Malachite. Since we only had one African Pygmy-Geese by this time, we briefly exited the park and visited the nearby Muzi Pan, which is known to host a sizable population of these diminutive geese. True to form, we were rewarded with sightings of at least 25 individuals. In addition to the geese, we added Wattled Lapwing, Collared Pratincole, and Southern Yellow White-eye. After a successful day, we started heading back to our lodge adding Crowned Lapwing, White-crested Helmetshrike, and Peregrine Falcon to the growing list.

In the morning, we hit the road toward the charming village of Wakkerstroom, a must-visit destination for any birding trip to South Africa. This region is home to a wealth of localized and often elusive species, making it a key stop for serious birders. Although we had the whole next day to explore, the weather looked uncertain, so we decided to get an early start and begin ticking off species right away.

Our first stop was a breeding colony of South African Swallows, nesting under a bridge. Just as we arrived, an African Harrier-Hawk flushed the entire colony, creating a spectacular scene as around 250 swallows took to the sky in a swirling mass. From there, we continued our journey, adding Yellow-crowned Bishop to the list, followed by a stakeout Denham’s Bustard. We watched as a pair of these impressive birds scoured the hillside in search of food. Soon after, we were treated to a Red-collared Widowbird and the impressive sight of a Secretarybird.

In the town of Wakkerstroom is an excellent birding hotspot, a large wetland that borders the town. We spent some time here scoping out the water and surrounding reeds finding Black Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, large flocks of widowbirds coming into roost, and an African Rail. We continued further up the road to a stakeout Blue Bustard location where we quickly found a pair off in the distance along with our first Spike-heeled Lark, Pale-crowned Cisticola, and a couple cute Meerkats. 

The following morning, we met our local BirdLife South Africa guide, who was well-versed in the latest developments regarding some of the region's rare and localized species. With his expert guidance, we set off for a day of birding across the surrounding montane grasslands and farmlands. We headed north of town and immediately started finding new species such as Black-winged Lapwing, Eastern Clapper Lark, and the locally rare Burchell’s Courser, which ended up breeding with a chick in tow. Further along a key spot for Pink-billed Lark turned up four individuals as well as our first Quailfinch and a family group of five Lanner Falcons. After lunch we headed to another site that was good for Yellow-breasted Pipit with two present on this visit as well as three White-bellied Bustards. Returning to Wakkerstroom in the late afternoon, we made one final stop for a Nicholson’s Pipit at a small quarry. 

The next morning, we returned to the causeway over the marsh, where we spotted a Rufous-necked Wryneck, heard the distinctive call of a Red-chested Flufftail, and were surprised to find a Western Barn Owl still perched in the grass well after sunrise. In the afternoon, we made our way toward Kruger National Park, enjoying a delicious lunch along the way.

In the late afternoon we arrived at the entrance to Kruger National Park, a vast 7,500-square-mile wilderness, where we traded our van for an open-top safari Land Cruiser. This change offered an ideal vantage point for bird and mammal viewing, as well as greater flexibility for photography. Our driver, a local expert with in-depth knowledge of Kruger, was ready to share his insights. Before hopping into the vehicle, we took a short walk that gave us our first taste of lowveld (savanna) birding. We had our first Gray Go-away-bird, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Parrot, Greater Blue-eared Starling, and Bearded Scrub-Robin. 

The rest of the day was spent exploring the southern region of Kruger as we made our way toward Skukuza Camp, our home base for the next two nights. Along the way, we encountered our first of many Lilac-breasted Rollers, African Gray and Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills, Wattled Starlings, and Tawny Eagles. Other notable sightings included a Pied Cuckoo, White-crowned Shrike, and an impressive Martial Eagle. Of course, Kruger isn’t just about birds. We had our first Lion encounter—a group of five—as well as our first Spotted Hyenas, alongside the usual mammals we had already become familiar with. On the reptile front, we also spotted Rainbow Skinks and Southern Tree Agamas.

The following day was devoted to birding along the productive Lower Sabie River, leading us toward the Lower Sabie Camp. The lush vegetation lining the river was teeming with bird activity, while the presence of water also afforded ample opportunities for mammal sightings. The morning kicked off with a number of new species for our growing list including Burnt-neck Eremomela, Violet-eared Waxbill, White-fronted Bee-eater, Red-faced Cisticola, Mosque Swallow, Little Sparrowhawk, Saddle-billed and Yellow-billed Storks, Hooded Vulture, Levaillant’s Cuckoo and Woodland Kingfisher all before breakfast. After a delicious breakfast overlooking the Lower Sabie River, we began working our way back towards Skukuza. A stop at Sunset Dam produced our first Knob-billed Duck, White-crowned Lapwing, Marsh Sandpiper, and Red-billed Buffalo-Weavers—the latter breeding in dense colonies in dead trees over the water and also joined by other colonial breeders namely Southern and Lesser Masked-Weavers. Down the road a state-out Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl roost produced an individual in a large tree and further along a Flap-neck Chameleon crossing the road was a nice surprise. 

In the afternoon, we took a short break after lunch before heading back out to explore areas closer to camp. Along the way, we added Red-headed Weaver, Bearded Woodpecker, and Red-crested Bustard to our list. The highlight, however, was an unexpected encounter with a group of African Wild Dogs—an exciting sighting that ranked high on the list of most-wanted mammals for the trip.

The following morning, we packed up and made our way northward towards Tshokwane, where we were to enjoy a traditional bush breakfast. But first we took a short walk to the Lower Sabie River in camp to find the resident African Black Duck successfully finding one lounging along the shoreline. Along the morning drive we picked up African Hawk-Eagle, Sabota Lark, Common Ostrich, Gray-headed Bushshrike, and a couple Eurasian migrants—Great Spotted Cuckoo and Spotted Flycatcher. 

Around Tshokwane, we encountered the usual mix of Kruger’s birdlife, including Dideric Cuckoo, Black-collared Barbet, and Arrow-marked Babblers, along with our first Mourning Collared-Doves. As we continued north toward Satara, our base for the next two nights, we added even more species along the way, including a striking pair of Southern Ground Hornbills and the vibrant Eurasian Golden Orioles.

After lunch and a brief afternoon break, we took a walk around our new camp, tallying an impressive 45 species. Highlights included more sightings of Klaas’s Cuckoo, Bateleur, Crested Barbet, and Brubru, along with White-throated and White-browed Robin-Chats and Terrestrial Brownbuls. We also recorded our first Red-billed and Jameson’s Firefinches. After dinner, our night drive proved to be incredibly rewarding, with exceptional sightings of an African Wild Cat, a Leopard, a Civet, and a Side-striped Jackal—all making for an unforgettable evening.

Birding didn’t disappoint, as we quickly found our first major target—a hefty Kori Bustard. By the end of the morning, we had tallied three. We also recorded our first Desert Cisticola, while Red-backed Shrikes were perched prominently across the open savannas. Additional highlights included our first African Cuckoo and a rare treat—two African Skimmers on the Olifants River. This species is uncommon in South Africa, but this year has seen a few lingering around Kruger.

Breakfast was enjoyed with a panoramic view of the vast Olifants River, where we also had our only sighting of a Mocking Cliff-Chat. From there, we took a gravel road south, adding more species along the way, including Pearl-spotted Owlet, Green-winged Pytilia, and Eastern Paradise-Whydah. However, the biggest discovery of the entire tour came at a river crossing—a staggering three Pel’s Fishing-Owls roosting in a large tree! Spotting a single Pel’s anywhere is remarkable, but finding three was record-breaking.

Topping that owl sighting was no easy feat, but we still managed some excellent birds en route back to Satara, including a half-dozen Temminck’s Coursers and a flock of about a dozen Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks. Before lunch, we stopped at a vulture watering hole, where among fifty White-backed and a handful of Cape Vultures, we counted six massive Lappet-faced Vultures, the largest in the region.

In the afternoon, we slowly birded a gravel road following a riverine course, picking up our first Marabou Stork, Retz’s Helmetshrike, and Yellow-billed Oxpecker—among nearly fifty other species. As dusk fell, a couple of Double-banded Sandgrouse came in to drink at the waterhole beside the camp restaurant, bringing a perfect end to another incredible day in Kruger.

Sadly, our final morning in Kruger allowed for only a few remaining hours in the park. We made a leisurely drive west toward the park gate, picking up a bonus Bennett’s Woodpecker along the way. The true highlight, however, was an unforgettable farewell—a stunning Cheetah, a fitting grand finale to our incredible four-night stay in Kruger National Park.

After a delicious lunch and locally roasted coffee at a charming café, we ascended the Drakensberg escarpment toward our beautifully situated hotel. Consistently ranked as the tour’s favorite accommodation, it sits tucked away from the main road, overlooking a serene pond on one side and bordering an indigenous forest on the other. This prime location places us just minutes from some of the finest Afromontane forest birding in South Africa.

The next morning, we set out early for the nearby Magoebaskloof forest, spotting a Cape Parrot and a Forest Buzzard along the way. Within the forest, we encountered familiar species such as Knysna Turacos, Narina Trogons, and Orange Ground Thrushes, while also picking up several new additions, including Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Rameron Pigeon, Black-fronted Bushshrike, African Crested Flycatcher, and White-starred Robin.

Lunch was enjoyed at an outdoor café, where we continued birding right from our table, tallying a couple dozen species. Notable sightings included African Stonechat, Amethyst Sunbird, and a locally rare Brown Snake-Eagle. In the afternoon, we made our way to Tzaneen to try our luck at spotting the elusive Magpie Mannikin, a locally uncommon species. Unfortunately, they didn’t make an appearance today, though a few in our group had a small flock fly over the previous afternoon. However, we did hear our first Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird calling nearby.

From there, we ventured to a eucalyptus and pine plantation known as a breeding site for Bat Hawks. Sure enough, we were rewarded with excellent views of a pair. With that success, we made our way back to our accommodation, adding Holub’s Golden-Weaver and Common Reed Warbler along the way.

After a good night’s rest, we headed west, stopping at a known breeding site for Horus Swift. Typically an uncommon species found in small numbers, this location was an exception— we estimated around 400 individuals swirling overhead and darting into nesting holes in the dirt banks, an incredible sight.

Shortly after the Polokwane Game Reserve gate opened, we arrived and spent the rest of the morning birding this rewarding reserve. The main target here was the localized endemic Short-clawed Lark, along with a variety of species more commonly found further west in the Kalahari. It didn’t take long to start adding new birds, including Brown-backed Honeybird, the stunning Crimson-breasted Gonolek, several Ashy Tits, Black-chested Prinia, a migrant Icterine Warbler, Chestnut-vented Warbler, Groundscraper Thrush, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Shaft-tailed Whydah, Great Rufous Sparrow, and the ever-present Marico Flycatcher. Of course, the highlight was the Short-clawed Lark—we headed to a known territory and quickly both heard and saw a couple of individuals, eventually enjoying excellent views of this endemic species.

After lunch and settling into our hotel in Polokwane, we spent the afternoon exploring a nearby wetland. The surrounding scrub yielded our first Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Red-headed Finch, and African Firefinch, while the wetlands themselves provided a nice mix of ducks and shorebirds, including our first Ruff, African Snipe, Blue-billed Teal, and Pied Avocet.

The next morning, we departed early for Zaagkuildrift Road, one of the region’s most productive hotspots. Upon arrival, we quickly ticked off our first target, a White-quilled Bustard, offering extended views through the scope. With our trip list growing steadily, we shifted focus to target species. Among the over 100 species we encountered that morning, we successfully tracked down Southern Pied-Babbler, along with our first Capped Wheatears and Pearl-breasted Swallows. The Kgomo-Kgomo floodplains were beginning to fill up, already hosting a nice variety of waterfowl, shorebirds, and waterbirds, including Black-winged Pratincoles—some of the first migrants to arrive this season.

As we neared Johannesburg and our hotel, we made time for one last stop at the Reitvlai Nature Reserve. The birding here was excellent, with great sightings of Rufous-necked Wryneck, Fan-tailed and Long-tailed Widowbirds, and Orange-throated Longclaws among other open grassland species. We also spotted our first Eland and Black Wildebeest and were treated to a couple of White Rhinos.

On our final morning, we made the most of our time. South of Johannesburg, we visited the Marievale Bird Sanctuary, a sprawling wetland teeming with birds. We spent just under three hours here, soaking in the sights of numerous ducks, shorebirds, egrets, and herons. The real highlight was the hundreds of flamingos, with the vast majority being Lesser Flamingos and a few Greater Flamingos mixed in for comparison. We also added Curlew Sandpipers to our list, bringing our total to 30 shorebird species for the tour, and recorded our first Black-throated Canaries. It was the perfect ending to an incredibly productive tour; made even better by the wonderful group of companions we shared it with.

                                                                                                                                                                                -          Ethan Kistler

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