Scotland

Day 1: The tour begins this afternoon at the Grant Arms Hotel, Grantown-on-Spey.

Days 2–6: We’ll explore the rich and varied habitats found within a day’s travel of our comfortable base. There will be no fixed itinerary, responding instead to the weather and reports of local sightings. Loch Garten is, of course, one destination we’ll visit at least once with hopes of seeing its famous Osprey, and the dense woodland that surrounds the loch hold the  dainty Crested Tit, Redpoll, Treecreeper, Siskin, and Tree Pipit. Separating Scottish and Common Crossbills is only possible using sound recording -  even then there is uncertainty, and it is likely that the two species will be considered one in future taxonomic revisions. In recent years Parrot Crossbill has also become established, and we’ll spend some time trying to locate them. These woods are also the haunt of a giant – the majestic Capercaillie. However, for all their size, they are extremely shy and secretive, and catching sight of one is far from easy. The Capercaillie is declining rapidly and they are easily disturbed, so we’ll restrict our visit to established forest tracks and avoid areas that are known to be sensitive for Capercaillie. Locating one will take great good luck. Much more obvious will be Red Squirrels bounding through the branches, and the Goldeneye and Red-breasted Mergansers out on the loch.

We’ll visit Loch Ruthven where we may find a pair of stunning Slavonian Grebes or Red-throated Divers. Near the hotel, as dusk falls we’ll certainly hear, and hopefully see, Woodcock performing their distinctive ‘roding’ dsiplays and we will visit a hide in the hope of seeing an elusive Pine Marten or a badger.

The Cairngorms create an impressive backdrop to our time on Speyside. Formed 400 million years ago it is one of the most spectacular parts of Britain and the largest landmass over 3000 feet, covering an area of over 200 square miles. We’ll visit the national park’s car park where we expect to see Snow Buntings foraging, as well as hopefully Mountain Hare on the lower slopes. On nearby local moorlands Red Grouse will explode from our feet but stealth and care will be needed to catch sight of the much rarer and elegant Black Grouse or a smart Ring Ouzel.

The nearby Moray Firth will also be worth a visit. About 40 minutes’ drive from our base we stand a good chance of finding Bottle-nosed Dolphins, and both Common and Grey Seals just offshore. There could be a few remaining winter seaduck such as Scaup, Common or Velvet Scoter and Long-tailed Duck mingling with the local Common Eider, and the open sea is a popular fishing location for the local Ospreys.

Findhorn Valley is known as the Valley of the Raptors – and for good reason. During our time here we could encounter Golden Eagle, Peregrine, Merlin, Common Buzzard and even a ghostly male Hen Harrier. The river running along the valley floor is home to Dipper, Common Sandpiper, Common Tern, and Grey Wagtail.

Another day could be spent on the Black Isle, north of Inverness. Here Red Kites abound, and the coastal stretches are another great place to look for sea mammals, as well as Gannets and the odd Arctic Skua. In Munlochy Bay we’ll seek out local residents such as Curlew, Shelduck, Oystercatcher, and Redshank. More seabirds can be found at Troup Head where the only mainland Gannet colony in Scotland shares the cliff faces with Fulmars, Shags, Kittiwakes, Guillemots, Razorbills and Puffins. Nights at the Grant Arms Hotel.

Days 7-9: We’ll drive across to the west coast, making a few stops along the way to look for any target species yet to be seen. A short ferry trip takes us across to the fabulous island of Mull which is recognized as a leading wildlife destination. During the ferry crossing there will be the chance of Black Guillemot and we’ll keep an eye out for Grey Seals and cetaceans.

Mull is home to the majestic White-tailed Eagle and here we can expect good views of these amazing birds, along with a host of other raptor species such as Golden Eagle and Hen Harrier. There is a good population of Otter on the island, and we’ll spend some time checking kelp beds along the shore to get views of these elusive mammals. We’ll take an unforgettable boat trip to the Treshnish Isles where we can expect close up views of Puffins. Cetaceans and Minke Whales are possible as we make our way between the islands. Nights on the Isle of Mull.

Day 10: We’ll return to the east coast with regular stops at a wide variety of habitats bringing this tour to a wonderful conclusion. Night in Inverness.

Day 11: The tour ends this morning after breakfast.

2024 Narrative

Day 1:

En route to the hotel, our first stop was the RSPB reserve at Loch Spynnie. We spent time looking at the bird feeders to get to grips with identification of common species including yellowhammer, finches and tits. Time was spent in the bird hide overlooking the loch and a variety of common waterbirds were present, including Goldeneye, Tufted Ducks and nesting Mute Swans. A few common and early migrants were seen, including Sand Martin (Bank Swallow), Chiffchaff and Willow Warbler.

Despite the long flight, the group was keen to continue birding, so we visited Roseisle Forest Park where we focused on seawatching for Divers (Loons). Excellent views of the scarce White-billed Diver were had along with distant Long-tailed Ducks, Common and Velver Scoters. A target bird for one of the clients was Black-throated Diver so we headed towards the Grant Arms Hotel via Lochindorb, where the species usually nests in most years). The weather was cool with a strong breeze and not ideal birding conditions but we did manage a brief view of the diver in flight.

Day 2:

The forecast suggested the best of the weather would be on the coast. The first location was Tarbat Ness which offers a mix of habitats to give a nice variety of birds. It was relatively quiet, but we saw several Rock Pipits which was one of our target birds. We managed good views of a few seabirds such as Fulmar, Gannet and Kittiwake. We moved to the fishing village of Porthmahomack to check the wintering flocks of duck that are usually present at this time of the year. Here we got excellent views of Long-tailed Ducks in a variety of plumages, and a few Greater Scaup and Eider. Our next destination was the RSPB reserve at Udale Bay where high tide was due just as we arrived. There were still good flocks of wintering Pink-footed Geese, with an estimated count of 750 birds. Large groups of birds could be seen distantly in the bay, so we relocated to Jemimaville where we could get better views. Here we had a nice flock of about 100 Greater Scaup, more Long-tailed Ducks and several Slavonian Grebe. This evening we were scheduled to visit mammal watching hide so we needed to head back to the hotel, but the pax were keen to stop off at Lochindorb en route to look for Black-throated Diver, and we managed to get excellent views of a single bird in stunning breeding plumage.

After dinner we headed to the mammal watching hide near Aviemore where we were treated to amazing views of both a male and female pine marten, as well as up to 6 badgers. An introduced Scottish Wildcat also visited the hide although it had clearly lost some of its wild instincts! Roding Woodcock and a hooting Tawny Owl were also heard. We got back to the hotel at about 11pm.

Day 3:

There was a biting cold wind from the north but the forecast predicted a ‘dry’ day. We started at Loch Insh where there is a breeding pair of Ospreys, and both the male and female were present attending the traditional nest location. Most other species recorded here were relatively common but gave us good views, especially Great, Blue and Coat Tits, and the clients were delighted to get close ups of a confiding Eurasian Robin. To escape the biting wind we had fabulous coffee and cake at the Kincraig Post Office Café and Art Gallery. 

Light rain started at about 10ish but we headed to Nethybridge to walk the riverside trail in search of Dipper and Grey Wagtail, both of which were found. The views of Dipper were especially good, with adults repeatedly returning to a concealed nest with food. The group was keen to visit the high Cairngorms to witness the dramatic mountain scenery so we headed to the funicular railway car park to search for Ring Ouzel. The skies had cleared but the wind remained bitterly cold. A male and female Ring Ouzel were seen from the car park area. With some spare time before dinner, we returned to the Grant Arms Hotel although the clients were keen to get out and do more birding! We took a short walk from the hotel through Anagach Woods and along the River Spey. Our first Barn Swallows were seen foraging over the river, and several Common Sandpiper were bobbing on the rocks. Two more Dippers were seen, again seemingly feeding chicks. Pairs of Goldeneye and Goosander were also observed.

Despite the long day we headed out after dinner to look for roding Woodcock at dusk and had 9 encounters between 20.50 and 21.25 - a great end to a long but productive day.

Day 4:

Despite yesterday’s long day, the group was raring to go at 5.30am to visit Black Grouse leks before breakfast. The first location had a staggering 12 lekking males and 2 females (the highest counts at this lek for many years). There was no wind and the bubbling calls of the grouse could be clearly heard – a great start to the day. At the second lek site a further 6 males could be seen (and heard) from the road. We headed back to the hotel for a well deserved breakfast. After a quick rest we decided to head for the Strathdearn Valley as today’s weather was predicted to be the warmest and most settled, giving the best chance of raptors – the target group of birds for the day. We made several stops along the valley, and got good views of a singing Common Redstart, and our first House Martins. The first raptors we saw were Red Kites, Common Buzzards and Kestrel. Unfortunately, the weather forecast wasn’t accurate and rain set in before we could get any views of Eagles. After views of Wheatears and Ring Ouzel we decided to change plan and head for Loch Ruthven where we could take advantage of the bird hide. Despite increasingly heavy rain we got excellent views of Slavonian Grebe right in front of the hide. Before returning to the hotel we took a short diversion to the bird feeders at Dell Wood (Nethybridge) where there had been reports of Crested Tit coming to the feeders. Unfortunately, despite a 30-minute wait there was no sign. We returned to the hotel cold and wet but in good spirits.

Day 5:

We headed to the coast in search of terns and shorebirds. Our first stop at Lossiemouth resulted in Common and Sandwich Terns, as well as a single Arctic Tern. Our main shorebird target, Purple Sandpiper gave excellent views foraging among the rocks. We then headed to Spey Bay and got our first Whimbrel along with a few Curlew and Ringed Plovers. A strong wind coming from the north pushed Red-throated Divers very close to the shore giving outstanding views. Razorbills and Guillemots were moving offshore in good numbers. We made a second visit to nearby Loch Spynnie. It was a good call, on the bird feeders we had excellent views of a female Brambling and numerous Yellowhammers. A Red Squirrel was seen several times. We also made a second stop at Roseisle Forest and were rewarded with excellent views of White-billed, Red-throated and Black-throated Divers.

After dinner, one of the group was keen to make a return visit to look for roding Woodcock, and again we had good views as the light faded, with 6 encounters between 21.05 and 21.25.

Day 6:

Our last full day in the Cairngorms before heading to the west coast and the Isle of Mull. The group were keen to target Crested Tit and raptors, so after breakfast we started at the feeders again in Dell Wood. Despite patiently waiting for an hour we only had one brief call of a Crested Tit in the canopy. We again headed for the Strathdearn Valley to focus on birds of prey and were rewarded with fabulous views of White-tailed Eagles approaching from a distance and going right over our heads. A birder not part of our group didn’t call out a Golden Eagle until after it had passed but showed us some photographs – thanks!!! There was a nice flock of Golden Plover in a pasture field and several breeding Northern Lapwings. We decided to walk further along the valley in search of more raptors, but only had more views of White-tailed Eagles and Buzzards. Several singing Tree Pipits were seen and heard.

Although there had been very few spring migrants recorded due to the prevailing northerly winds, we decided to head for Craigellachie Woods near Aviemore. The woods were quiet although we got more views of singing Tree Pipit, and a brief call of a Wood Warbler (the first record of the year for Craigellachie).

We headed back to the hotel for dinner and a relatively early night so we could rest and pack before the long drive to the Isle of Mull the next day.

Day 7:

We had a quick walk from the hotel to the nearby Anagach Woods just before breakfast in the hope of Crested Tit, but we were again out of luck. We heard Crossbills overhead and had excellent views of Great-spotted Woodpecker and Treecreeper.

After breakfast we headed west with a stop at Creag Meagidh National Nature Reserve. Our target species here was Redpoll and we saw at least six, as well as more singing Tree Pipit, Willow Warblers and Chiffchaff.

After a short ferry crossing across Loch Linnhe, we continued our journey west with a stop at the head of Loch Strontian to scan the mud and rocks for shorebirds. Here we got our first views of Common Greenshank, as well as breeding Oystercatchers, several Eurasian Curlews and more Common Sandpipers. In nearby bushes we heard and saw our first Eurasian Blackcaps of the trip. As we headed over the moors towards the Lochaline ferry terminal, we stopped several times to scan for raptors, as this area is renowned for eagles and can be good for Hen Harriers. We struck gold with good views of both Golden and White-tailed Eagles, as well as views of Cuckoo and several Stonechats. The ferry crossing to Mull was rather uneventful with a few Black Guillemots being the only real highlight. After checking into the hotel at Salen we took a short walk to stretch the legs after the long drive. We heard more singing Blackcaps, several Cuckoos, had numerous Siskins overhead and a host of other common species.

Day 8:

Today was the scheduled boat trip to the Treshnish Isles and straight after breakfast we headed towards the harbour town of Tobermory. We departed the harbour at approximately 10am heading around the northern tip of Mull before heading to the isle of Lunga. En route we had more views of White-tailed Eagles, albeit distant. The sea conditions were dead calm which may be good for the stomach but reduces the chances of seabirds such as Manx Shearwater! Three Manx Shearwaters were seen as well as a good number of Kittiwakes, Razorbills and Guillemots (Common and Black). As we approached Lunga we got our first views of Puffins on the water. Many seabirds had not returned to their breeding colonies but despite this we still saw good numbers of Puffins (about 300), Guillemots (about 300), Razorbills (about 500), and at least 40 Fulmars up close, and a brief view of an Arctic Skua. Shags and Kittiwakes were also seen in good numbers. We then made the short boat trip to the island of Staffa. As well as all the seabirds, we saw and heard singing Twite and Rock Pipit. The return trip back to Tobermory was rather quiet although we did pass through several rafts of auks allowing really good up close views. After docking we grabbed a quick coffee and cake and headed to Calgary Moor to search for Hen Harrier and one of the group picked one out in the distance. After a further 10 minutes of scanning the horizon we had a brief view of a male and female together. A nice end to a fabulous days birding.

Day 9:

This was the last full day of birding on the trip and we were blessed with good weather. We had an amazing start to the day as we scanned from the shore of Loch na Kiel. We watched a White-tailed Eagle flying low across the water before making a sharp turn and targeting an unfortunate Common Gull on the water. The Eagle appeared to drown the gull before taking its breakfast to the shoreline. We then headed to the beautiful Loch Ba and had good views of Crossbill, Siskin, Coal Tits and Goldcrests in the forest. Along the loch shore a single White-tailed Eagle was perched in a dead tree, and we had good views of Golden Eagle circling in the distance. From here we headed along the southern shore of Loch na Kiel and had a further three White-tailed Eagles sitting on rocks along the shoreline. A total of 6 eagle sightings before 11am is not a bad start to the day! Great-northern Divers were present, many in full breeding plumage. By mid-afternoon we reached the south-west of Mull and stopped for coffee at the rather wonderful Lazy Cow café – this can be a good area to see Hen Harrier and after several cups of coffee we had excellent views of a male Hen Harrier from the café terrace. As we started our journey back to Salen we stopped at a small roadside wetland to get our first views of singing Sedge Warbler. Our final stop at the head of Loch Scridian resulted in our first Dunlin of the tour as well as Turnstones, Ringed Plover, Curlews, Oystercatchers and a single Greenshank.

Day 10:

After checking out the hotel, we decided to make a quick trip to Dervaig Reedbed for more views of singing Sedge Warbler, and also got our first decent views of Bullfinch (male and female). We again drove over Calgary Moor to search for more Hen Harriers and again were rewarded with a male and female in the distance. By mid-morning we were at the ferry terminal to cross back to the mainland and made a stop at the Rahoy Hills Scottish Wildlife Trust reserve. Our target species here were Whinchat and Wood Warbler and we got excellent views of both. As we continued our journey east to Inverness airport, we made one more stop at Creag Meagidh NNR and got our final new bird of the trip – a Spotted Flycatcher (a very early record for Scotland). This bought our trip total to an impressive 133 bird species seen or heard.  

                                                                                                                                                                                    -          Rob Sheldon

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