Lying just off the coast of Venezuela, the island of Trinidad shares much of its birdlife with the nearby continent. A large percentage of South America’s avian families are represented but without the confounding variety of species encountered on the mainland. For this reason, combined with its pleasant island atmosphere, its logistical accessibility (English is the official language), and world-renowned accommodations, Trinidad has long been considered the destination for fostering an understanding of Neotropical birds.
While on the island we’ll visit the famous Asa Wright Nature Centre, which perhaps needs no introduction. At this former coffee plantation now invaded by rainforest and converted into a first-rate eco-lodge, we’ll be sure to devote ample time to simply enjoying the grounds and the view from the veranda, letting the dazzling array of birdlife come to us. Visiting the feeders daily are perhaps 10 or more species of hummingbird, including Tufted Coquette; honeycreepers; and several species of tanager. Bearded Bellbirds can be seen from the lodge, as well as Channel-billed Toucan, nesting Crested Oropendolas, manakins, several species of swift, and a variety of tropical raptors, among many others. The grounds are also home to a colony of Oilbirds, one of the most accessible colonies in the world of this spectacular and enigmatic bird. We’ll also pick a day for a spectacular boat trip through Caroni Swamp out to a roost of Scarlet Ibis, herons, and egrets numbering in the many thousands.
Once hunted to near-extinction, the Trinidad Piping Guan has been the focus of considerable local conservation efforts. The bird has responded well to this effort and has been slowly increasing in numbers and visibility. We will make a special effort to find this bird along the northern coast of Trinidad at Grand Riviere.
A short plane ride from Trinidad will take us to the island of Tobago, Trinidad’s smaller, more Caribbean, and (perhaps) even fairer sister. Based at another scenic and bird-rich eco-lodge, we’ll have the opportunity to search for a number of species not present on Trinidad, while enjoying beautiful sand beaches, rainforest, and a short boat ride to Little Tobago Island, where swarms of seabirds—including frigatebirds, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, and boobies—build their nests. Tobago is also an excellent island for vagrants, of either New World or Old World origins.
Few tours combine relaxed pace, comfortable lodgings, and relatively little travel with such an intense tropical birding experience.
Day 1: The tour begins mid-afternoon at Trinidad’s Piarco International Airport, where you will be met and transferred to our hotel in Talparo, on the rainforest’s edge. Nestled within a lush garden, this will be our base for our first two nights in Trinidad. Night near Talparo.
Day 2: We’ll kick off the birding with a visit to the verdant Maracas Valley. Known as the hummingbird mecca of Trinidad, we may see up to 14 species of hummingbirds up close as we explore the tropical garden, which hosts delights such as the ornate Tufted Coquette, the stunning Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, and the distinct White-necked Jacobin.
Following lunch, we’ll take a very short drive over to the world-renowned Caroni Swamp, the second-largest mangrove wetland in Trinidad & Tobago. Transferring into a private flat-bottomed boat,we will delve into the heart of the spectacular mangrove forests. Snaking through narrow watercourses among these tranquil and tangled mangroves, we’ll look for Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Silvered Antbird, Black-crested Antshrike, American Pygmy and Green Kingfishers, and Herons of every possible description. In the skies above, we may be treated to a selection of Trinidad’s extensive variety of raptors including Short-tailed Hawks, Long-winged Harriers, Plumbeous Kites, Gray-lined Hawks, and Bat Falcons. We may even spot a sleeping Silky Anteater coiled up on a branch along the way.
When the sun begins to dip lower in the sky, we’ll emerge out into an open expanse of water, greeted by the sight of dozens of American Flamingos feeding. Cattle, Great and Snowy Egrets, along with Tricolored Herons and Little Blue Herons arrive and proceed to decorate the emerald-colored mangrove islands.
As evening sets in, we’ll be in a great place to witness one of Trinidad’s famous natural spectacles: the flight of Scarlet Ibis, herons, and egrets, thousands strong, coming to roost in the mangroves of Caroni. We’ll enjoy dinner on a private cruise through the swamp to finish out the day. Night near Talparo.
Days 3: This morning we’ll work our way through picturesque rural villages and peaceful farm roads on our way to an area characterized by pockets of wetlands and pastures bordered by mangroves. This hodgepodge of habitats hosts a wide variety of species including Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Striped Cuckoo, Pinnated Bittern, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Limpkin, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Red-breasted Meadowlark and Masked Yellowthroat. Wattled Jacana, Ringed Kingfisher, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Purple Gallinule, Striated Heron, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, and Black-tailed Tityras are all possible as well.
In the afternoon we’ll work our way towards an extensive tidal mudflat along the west coast of the island. Impressive numbers of Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns are usually around, and we’ll also keep an eye open for Collared Plovers among other shorebirds. This area of Trinidad has hosted several vagrants, and we’ll keep an eye out for wayward shorebirds and gulls and perhaps the rare Rufous Crab-Hawk, a resident that has been recorded along this stretch of coastline.
In the late afternoon we’ll check into the recently reopened, refurbished, and world-renowned Asa Wright Nature Center, our comfortable base for the next three nights. Night at Asa Wright Nature Center.
Days 4-5: The first morning at Asa Wright can be almost overwhelming to the senses. Excellent birding can be had right from the lodge’s famed veranda. As we sip coffee or tea, we’ll enjoy close encounters with many of the 25 or more species that regularly visit the feeders here, including several species of colorful tanagers as well as hummingbirds. The veranda also offers a spectacular view over the surrounding forest, where many other species not prone to visit the feeders can be spotted in the first rays of sun lighting the treetops, including Bearded Bellbird or perhaps even Ornate Hawk-Eagle. Still more species can be seen by taking short walks on the grounds or along the narrow entrance road to the lodge. We may witness the exuberant displays of Golden-headed and White-bearded Manakins; three species of trogon are also possible.
One of the main attractions at Asa Wright is the deep fissure known as Dunton Cave. Along the way we’ll keep an eye out for the non-bird denizens of the forest here such as Red-rumped Agouti and Golden Tegu Lizard. The main attraction here though is the bizarre Oilbird, which takes of residence in the cave. This is one of the most accessible Oilbird locations in the world and we’ll enjoy face-to-face views with this monotypic species.
The next morning will take us farther into the majestic forest of the Northern Range along the Blanchisseuse Road, where we’ll look for Black-faced Antthrush, Speckled Tanager, and Golden-crowned Warbler, among many others. We’ll keep an eye to the sky for raptors, including the beautiful White Hawk.
Lunch will find us in the charming village of Brasso Seco and will be followed by a cacao demonstration (featuring samples!) from one of the local farmers belonging to a community initiative. Here, surrounded by cacao trees, we may also be joined by Turquoise Tanager, Lineated and Chestnut Woodpeckers, and Green Hermit. Afterwards, we’ll continue through the mountains to Morne la Croix where Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Yellow-headed Caracara, Crested Oropendola and Long-billed Gnatwren are possible. Settling down with tea and cakes (or a home-brewed rum punch if you prefer), we have the pleasure of watching dazzlingly colorful Blue-headed Parrots fly into their roosts.
Following a delicious meal, we’ll go on a night walk through the lush forest where we’ll try to encounter nocturnal species such as Trinidad Chevron Tarantulas, Coral Snakes, Spectacled Owls, Tropical Screech-Owls, and Tailless Whip Scorpions. Nights at Asa Wright Nature Center.
Day 6: On our final morning at Asa Wright, we’ll revel in the incredible dawn chorus and enjoy the myriad of species that come into the feeders and numerous flowering plants and trees that surround the lodge’s verandah. The extensive property hosts several forest-dwelling species, and we’ll target any remaining species we haven’t yet seen. We’ll pay a visit to leks tucked away in the forest, where the Golden-headed and White-bearded Manakins will be entertaining us with their territorial displays, which is always a sight to be had! A final stroll along the Discovery Trail will hopefully unearth some treasured gems such as Gray-throated Leaftosser and Black-faced Antthrush. Our walk culminates at a reliable spot for up-close sightings of the remarkable Bearded Bellbird - an unforgettable encounter.
In the afternoon we’ll depart Asa Wright and head to the quaint fishing village of Grand Riviere on Trinidad’s rugged and dramatic north coast. Here, we will search for the endemic Trinidad Piping Guan (known locally as Pawi). This is the only reliable site remaining on Earth for encounters with a bird that once numbered many thousands of individuals, but that has been hunted relentlessly and now teeters on the verge of extinction. We’ll make a few birding stops along the way but upon arrival at Grand Riviere our main focus for the afternoon will be searching for the guan among the wild nutmeg trees, which provide their preferred food. The birding is excellent here and the afternoon may reveal 60 or more species.
Having hopefully found the Pawi, we will check into our hotel in time for dinner. The stretch of unspoiled quartz-rich sand in front of the hotel is one of the most important nesting grounds for the Leatherback Turtle in the world, and boasts hundreds of sightings during the months of March to August. With luck, we will bear witness as these gargantuan prehistoric marine reptiles haul themselves up the beach, clambering over one another, to lay their eggs along this protected coastline. Night in Grand Riviere.
Day 7: This morning, we will have a second chance of viewing the Piping Guan, particularly if we did not see it in the previous afternoon. The surrounding area, nestled in a large cacao estate, should be active with birds feeding on the wild nutmeg trees and we’ll keep an eye out for Little Tinamou, Smooth-billed Ani, White-tipped Dove, White-flanked Antwren, Purple, Red-legged and Green Honeycreepers, Pale-breasted Spinetail, and a host of hummingbirds.
After lunch we’ll have a more relaxed afternoon enjoying the tranquility of our surroundings and searching for any species we may still be missing. Night in Grand Riviere.
Day 8: Following breakfast, we will depart for the 2-hour ride to the airport and our short flight to Tobago, where we’ll transfer to our lodgings at Cuffie River Nature Retreat located on the edge of the historic Main Ridge Forest Reserve. Geologically, culturally, and ornithologically distinct, Tobago is quite different than its larger neighbor Trinidad and this will be quite evident on our arrival. Along the way we’ll visit a small mangrove where White-fringed Antwren and the endemic “Tobago” subspecies of Scrub Greenlet can be found. We’ll again find ourselves living amid excellent habitat, and our new home offers chances for Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Trinidad Motmot, and Common Potoo, among a host of others. Night at Cuffie River Nature Retreat.
Days 9-10: From our base at Cuffie, we’ll explore the island paradise of Tobago. For one morning we will explore the Gilpin Trace, a magnificent piece of pristine forest draped in mosses and lianas. We visit a little-known lek for Blue-backed Manakin and delight in the acrobatic antics of this beautiful species. Here we may also encounter, among others, Plain Antvireo, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Yellow-legged Thrush, and the near-endemic White-tailed Sabrewing. Elsewhere we’ll be in search of other species not found on Trinidad, including Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Striped Owl, White-fringed Antwren, and Red-crowned Woodpecker. The late afternoon is yours to stroll the grounds and surrounding trails or select a favorite perch either on the front or rear main balcony from which to enjoy sightings of an incredible array of hummingbirds - including the aforementioned Sabrewing. Over 100 species have been spotted in this forest, so we’ll have much of the day searching for them.
As sunset approaches, flocks of parrots, parrotlets, and noisy chachalacas break the silence as they return to their evening roosts. After dark we’ll search for the tiny White-tailed Nightjar, a near-endemic which can be found right on the property.
For our second day on Tobago, we’ll drive along the scenic coastline towards the seaside town of Speyside. Here we’ll trade our vehicle for a glass-bottomed boat to take a short ride out to Little Tobago Island. The island, one of the country’s most significant wildlife sanctuaries, boasts one of the largest seabird colonies in the entire Caribbean and upon approach from the boat numerous seabirds should already be visible wheeling and cavorting over the waves. As we disembark from the jetty, we will begin our ascent into the dry tropical forest. Here the spectacular tropical scenery is enhanced by a great show of nesting seabirds. Red-billed Tropicbirds, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, and Magnificent Frigatebirds whirl about, and we may even spot an Audubon’s Shearwater out over the sea. These encounters are interspersed with regular sightings of Bridled, Sooty, Roseate and Royal Terns as well as Brown Noddies.
We’ll return to Tobago for lunch, and afterwards we’ll have the afternoon to explore more of the tropical gardens of our accommodation and the busy feeding frenzy at the bird feeders. Nights at Cuffie River Nature Retreat.
Day 11: After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for our return 20-minute flight from Tobago to Trinidad and onward journey home.
Note: The information presented here is an abbreviated version of our formal General Information for Tours to Trinidad and Tobago. Its purpose is solely to give readers a sense of what might be involved if they take this tour. Although we do our best to make sure that what follows here is completely accurate, it should not be used as a replacement for the formal document which will be sent to all tour registrants, and whose content supersedes any information contained here.
ENTERING & LEAVING TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO: U.S. citizens must have a passport valid for at least six months after your scheduled departure from Trinidad and Tobago, and with at least one blank page for an entry stamp.
COUNTRY INFORMATION: You can review the U.S. Department of State Country Specific Travel Information here: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel.html. Review foreign travel advice from the UK government here: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice and travel advice and advisories from the Government of Canada here: https://travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories.
PACE OF TOUR: We’ll make early starts some days, and we’ll be birding all day, usually returning to our lodging about an hour before dinner and checklist. On other days, e.g. when birding the grounds of Asa Wright, we’ll be close to our lodgings and may have the opportunity for a break/cooling off period after lunch, before resuming birding later in the afternoon.
Birding will often be along roads or tracks, with the notable exception of the hike to Dunston Cave for Oilbirds. This is an easy to moderate hike on a good trail and takes less than an hour even while stopping for birds along the way. The Gilpin Trace trail on Tobago is a well-worn path and we’ll walk it at a very slow pace. To view the seabirds on Little Tobago Island involves a walk up a rather long woodland stairway to reach a vista on the opposite side of the island.
Bathroom Breaks: We’ll be in close proximity to bathrooms most of the tour. There may be the occasional time where bathrooms are not available such as on Little Tobago Island or while birding trails.
HEALTH: The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends that all travelers be up to date on routine vaccinations. These include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis vaccine, varicella (chickenpox) vaccine, polio vaccine, and your yearly flu shot.
They further recommend that most travelers have protection against Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Please contact your doctor well in advance of your tour’s departure as some medications must be initiated weeks before the period of possible exposure.
The most current information about travelers’ health recommendations can be found on the CDC’s Travel Health website at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/trinidad-and-tobago.
Smoking: Smoking is prohibited in the vehicles or when the group is gathered for meals, checklists, etc. If you are sharing a room with a non-smoker, please do not smoke in the room. If you smoke in the field, do so well away and downwind from the group. If any location where the group is gathered has a stricter policy than the WINGS policy, that stricter policy will prevail.
Biting Insects: Biting insects are not numerous, although mosquitoes, black flies and chiggers occur locally. A can of spray repellent should provide adequate protection against the first two while the latter can normally be avoided by staying out of the grass on the trails and road. If you are especially sensitive to insect bites, bring an antihistamine.
Water: Although tap water is generally safe to drink on Trinidad and Tobago, bottled water will be provided in our tour vehicles. We recommend packing a refillable water bottle to limit the use of plastic, to be filled either at tap or from a jug provided by the leader.
Motion Sickness: Many of the roads on Trinidad and Tobago are narrow and winding. If you are especially prone to carsickness, we recommend packing an antiemetic such as Dramamine. The boat ride to Little Tobago Island is about 20 minutes on generally calm seas.
CLIMATE: Daily temperatures on Trinidad and Tobago average around 80 degrees F. Our tour falls at the end of the dry season/beginning of the rainy season, meaning fewer crowds and a peak in avian activity. While we won’t expect excessive rain, come prepared for the chance shower.
ACCOMMODATION: We’ll be staying in good quality hotels or lodges throughout. All rooms will have private facilities. The recently updated Asa Wright rooms are very comfortable and have good AC units.
Internet: WiFi internet is available at all of our lodgings, sometimes confined to public areas.
FOOD: Food at both Asa Wright and Cuffie is excellent, typically consisting of local Trinidadian and Tobagonian flavors. Meals taken on the road will generally be picnic-style or at good roadside restaurants. The local cuisine on Trinidad and Tobago is world renowned, combining Indian, African, Creole, Amerindian, European, Chinese and Lebanese influences. We’ll be sure to sample many of the famed national dishes, many of which will satisfy vegetarians as well as those who enjoy fish but not red meat.
WINGS tours are all-inclusive, and no refunds can be issued for any tour meals participants choose to skip.
Drinks: Bottled water or a soft drink or a beer/glass of wine is provided at lunch and dinner, as is coffee or tea. All other drinks or ‘personal’ drinking water for use in your room etc. is the responsibility of the individual.
Food Allergies / Requirements: We cannot guarantee that all food allergies can be accommodated at every destination. Participants with significant food allergies or special dietary requirements should bring appropriate foods with them for those times when their needs cannot be met. Announced meal times are always approximate depending on how the day unfolds. Participants who need to eat according to a fixed schedule should bring supplemental food. Please contact the WINGS office if you have any questions.
TRANSPORTATION: We’ll travel primarily in a small bus/large van while on both islands. Transportation from Trinidad to Tobago is a short flight on Caribbean Airlines.
IN BRIEF: After a several year hiatus, prompted due to Asa Wright’s temporary closure and the pandemic, it was great to finally offer this popular tour once again. Lying just off the coast of Venezuela, Trinidad & Tobago is a wonderful destination with superb birding, comfortable accommodation, and delicious cuisine. On Trinidad, we explored many corners of the island including the rainforests of the Northern Range, the famed Caroni Swamp where Scarlet Ibis can be enjoyed, and the coastal town of Grande Riviere where we witnessed Leatherback Turtles laying eggs at night and watched hatchlings emerge in the morning. Asa Wright offered renowned birding right from our doorstep with productive bird feeders loaded with hummingbirds and tanagers.
A short 20-minute flight took us to Tobago, which offers a more Caribbean flavor. While there is considerable overlap, there are many species that occur on Tobago, but not Trinidad and we were able to add a lot of new species to our trip list. With the Cuffie River Nature Retreat as our homebase, we took a couple days trips exploring the island with one morning spent up along the Gilpin Trace, the oldest protected rainforest in the world, and another afternoon taking a boat out to Little Tobago Island, which offered a whole host of nesting pelagic species.
IN DETAIL: The tour commenced at Hacienda Jacana, where a two hour walk around the productive gardens netted 50 species before breakfast! A pair of Red-bellied Macaws, the dazzling Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, and the Guianan Trogon were some of the show stoppers, but there was an endless selection of birds to enjoy including Gray-lined Hawk, Lineated and Golden-olive Woodpeckers, Bar-crested and Barred Antshrikes, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Streaked Xenops, Black-tailed Tityra, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Cocoa and Spectacled Thrushes, Crested Oropendola, and Yellow Oriole to name a few. We also had our taste of the common tanagers of the island with Blue-gray, White-lined, Silver-beaked, and Palm being joined by a couple gorgeous Turquoise Tanagers.
After a successful morning and tasty breakfast, we ventured into some open country outside of Port-of-Spain where we did some birding from the vehicle in between rain showers. Pearl Kite, Wattled Jacana, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, and a very cooperative White-headed Marsh-Tyrant were some of the new additions. A couple walks down some rural farm roads added Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Limpkin, Yellow-headed Caracara, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Pied Water-Tyrant, and Yellow-hooded Blackbirds along with close to twenty migrant Fork-tailed Flycatchers. We also managed to squeeze out a few Greater Ani among the more common Smooth-billed.
We had a delicious lunch at the famous Yerettê Hummingbird Sanctuary all the while being surrounded by an amazing display of hundreds of hummingbirds! Copper-rumped Hummingbird, White-chested Emerald, White-necked Jacobin and Black-throated Mango were the most common followed by Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Blue-chinned Sapphire, and Long-billed Starthroat, with singletons of Rufous-breasted, Green, and Rufous-breasted Hermits and a Tufted Coquette as a stunning 11th species visiting the feeders! Other birds present include Purple Honeycreepers, Gray-olive Saltator, and Long-billed Gnatwren.
We then headed over to the vast Caroni Swamp doing a little bit of birding along the entrance road picking up Tropical Screech-Owl, American Pygmy-Kingfisher, Red-rumped Woodpecker, Black-crested Antshrike, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Ochre-lored Flatbill, Northern Scrub-Flycatcher and a surprise pair of cooperative Mangrove Cuckoos.
We then boarded our private boat donning a built-in center table for an unforgettable sunset cruise of the swamp. Bicolored Conebill, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, a roosting Common Potoo, Spectacled Caiman and Central American Tree Boa were enjoyed along the canal before we reached more open waters. Among the usual herons and egrets, we had Black-necked Stilts, Large-billed Terns, White-winged Swallow, and around a hundred American Flamingos…but the real treat was watching around 250 Scarlet Ibis flying over constantly in small to large flocks and some of them settling in on the island in front of us. We had a delicious dinner on the boat with a bonus bottle of rum punch reveling in the spectacle. On our way back to the dock, dusk had fallen, and we added Short-tailed Nighthawk along the way.
Hard to top such and incredible first day, but the next morning we were back at it with our first stop being an area of rice fields. Purple Gallinule, Black Skimmers, Masked Yellowthroats, and some migrant shorebirds namely Lesser Yellowlegs and Least Sandpipers were had. The real treat was spotting a couple Pinnated Bitterns.
We then worked our way towards the southwest corner of the island stopping en-route to try some ‘doubles’, a local dish consisting of chickpeas wrapped in two fried flatbreads. It’s always a treat to try different local flavors when traveling to new regions. Back to birding, we drove and walked some loops around some open country adding Pale-breasted Spinetail, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Red-breasted Meadowlarks, and with some patience, Masked Cardinal.
Before lunch we visited a coastal Hindu Temple which also added some new coastal species such as Willet, Magnificat Frigatebird, and Brown Pelicans while also enjoying a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird constructing a nest. Following the theme of Indian culture, we had lunch at a popular local Indian Restaurant before working our way towards Asa Wright, our home base for the next few nights. Decedents from India make up nearly 40% of the people in Trinidad & Tobago and play an important part in the history and culture of the islands.
Situated in the Northern Range, an extension to the Andes Mountains, Asa Wright is a world-renowned birding lodge set in a beautiful forest with bird-rich gardens, and a very productive bird feeding station. An excellent place to be based for several days while going on some short daytrips in between exploring the gardens and relaxing at the feeders. We arrived in time before dark to enjoy the feeders for a bit and were treated to our first Brown Violetears and a distant Scaled Pigeon. After dinner we did a night walk locating another Central American Tree Boa along with Hallowell’s Coffee Snake, Wiegmann’s Striped Gecko, Northern Turniptail Gecko, Audubon’s Multicolored Lizard, and Trinidad Chevron Tarantula.
Our first full day at Asa Wright was spent exploring the extensive property, including the feeders and gardens, the network of trails, and the entrance road. A fruiting tree along the entrance road had quite the frenzy including our first Bay-headed Tanager, Blue Dacnis, and White-bearded Manakin. We then turned our attention to the forest below the lodge. As we walked, the deafening calls of Bearded Bellbirds kept getting closer until we eventually found a small group offering excellent views. Other highlights in the forest include White-flanked Antwren, White-bellied Antbird, Plain-brown and Cocoa Woodcreepers, White-necked Thrush, and an elusive Euler’s Flycatcher. From the balcony, which offers a break in the closed rainforest canopy, we were able to spot soaring Short-tailed and Zone-tailed Hawks and Gray-rumped Swifts all the while enjoying the spectacle at the feeders including our first Green Honeycreepers.
The next morning, we turned our attention to the Blanchisseuse Road. Spending much of the morning birding along this proactive road, we made many stops along the way turning up Common Black Hawk, Collared Trogon, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Band-rumped Swift, Tropical Pewee, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Tropical Parula, and a small flock of gorgeous Turquoise Tanagers. A couple more stops before lunch yielded White Hawk, Green-backed Trogon, Lilac-tailed Parrotlet, and Forest Elaenia while a fruiting tree also added an excellent mix of species including our first Speckled and Swallow Tanagers.
Lunch was had at the charming village of Brasso Seco, which was followed by a cacao demonstration (featuring samples!) from one of the local farmers who belonged to a community initiative involving cacao farming. Afterword’s we were back at it birding nearby adding Golden-crowned Warbler, stunning views of Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Blue-headed Parrot, and no fewer than 150 White-collared Swifts circling overhead. After dinner we did a night walk in search of owls eventually obtaining superb views of a pair of Spectacled Owls and also hearing a nearby Mottled Owl. An excellent finish to another productive day!
The next day began as a relaxing morning at Asa Wright with a short walk down to the Oilbird cave. Although this species is usually present year-round, in the last few months before our arrival, the last birds disappeared. The resident bird guides explained that the top of the cave opened up allowing too much sunlight into the cave, which likely led to their departure, but fortunately there are plans to cover the top with vegetation to darken the cave again and bring entice the Oilbirds back! However, we did see a couple species of herps on our walk including Yellow-throated and Rusty Tree Frogs as well as a trio of Channel-billed Toucans entertained from the balcony.
In the afternoon we traversed the island towards the northeast coastal town of Grande Rivierie. Along the way we picked up a Plumbeous Kite and enjoyed another 50 or so migrant Fork-tailed Flycatchers. Once we reached town, we visited a nearby forest where we had our first views of the Critically Endangered Trinidad Piping-Guan. Celebrations ensued as we reveled in this rare species, which could possibly only number fewer than 100 individuals. We also had our first Gray-headed Kite flyover.
After dinner we headed to our rooms with the anticipation for someone to knock on our doors to alert us to any potential Leatherback Turtles laying eggs on the beach. Our hotel is conveniently located directly adjacent to the beach and a team of local volunteers who watch the turtles take folks out see watch them lay eggs. We weren’t in our rooms for more than a few minutes before one was already found laying eggs, and a short walk later, we were able to enjoy this incredible experience watching a colossal Leatherback lay eggs. When females are laying, they go into a trance, which allows for everyone to be right there and watching all the while not disturbing her. What a remarkable way to cap off the day!
The next morning, we did a short walk before breakfast on the beach to see if any leatherbacks were hatching. Despite a very large presence of Black Vultures taking advantage of the quick snacks, we found a clutch hatching and help aid a number of young Leatherbacks into the water. It was great to see another step along the life cycle progress!
Back in the nearby forest, we spent the morning birding quickly finding four more of the Critically Endangered Trinidad Piping-Guans. We tallied nearly 50 species including our first Black Hawk-Eagle, Silvered Antbird, Streaked Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, and White-shouldered Tanager. Back at the accommodation, some of the group decided to check out the beach and estuary where we had Ruddy Turnstone, Spotted Sandpiper, Common Terns, and the ever-present Magnificent Frigatebird among others.
After lunch and a midday break during the quiet part of the day, we revisited the forest once more. By now we’ve been pretty successful finding all of our targets so this time around we were able to bird it at a leisurely pace enjoying the resident species such as a selection of hummingbirds visiting a feeding station including the flashy Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Guianan Trogon, Golden-headed Manakin, and Long-billed Gnatwren, not to mention yet another great sighting of the Trinidad Piping-Guan.
The next morning, we worked our way back towards Port-of-Spain for our flight to Tobago. Along the way we paid a visit to a local hummingbird feeding station where we reveled in masses of hummingbirds and had a delicious home-cooked lunch. White-necked Jacobins were the most common but there were a couple Tufted Coquettes keeping everyone entertained. Before reaching the airport, a Bat Falcon shot across the road in front of us.
A short 30-minute flight took us to Trinidad’s little cousin, Tobago Island. This much smaller island has a much more Caribbean flair and was obviously more laid back; it also offered a different mix of birds. While there was considerable overlap, there were also a number of species that occurs on Tobago and not Trindad. Caribbean Martins replaced Gray-breasted Martins while Gray Kingbirds hawked from telephone wires throughout the island. We didn’t have many daylight hours remaining, but we still squeezed in some birding at the Bon Accord Wasterwater Treatment Plant. No birding tour is complete without a visit to a sewage plant! Here we picked up Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Least Grebe, Solitary Sandpiper, Whimbrel, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Black-faced Grassquit, and a vagrant Lesser Black-backed Gull. We then headed to Cuffie River Nature Retreat, our base for the next few nights.
Our accommodation was situated in a remote area providing plenty of surrounding habitat to explore and a small bird feeding station. The next morning, we awoke to active feeders where we enjoyed several White-tailed Sabrewings, a species not found on Trinidad. Other highlights around the property include our first Scrub Greenlet and a calling Venezuelan Flycatcher, which just wouldn’t make an appearance along with a couple of very cooperative Rufous-tailed Jacamars that posed nicely for us.
After breakfast we headed to the northeast end of the island for the much-anticipated boat ride to Little Tobago Island. This protected island is home to a seabird breeding colony and also some fascinating history. A little over a hundred years ago, Greater Birds-of-Paradise from New Guinea were introduced to this small island to help with their conservation. They survived for nearly 60 years until a couple hurricanes wiped out their population.
Hopping into our glass-bottomed boat, we took the short ride out to the island seeing our first Bridled Terns and locally rare Scaly-naped Pigeons. Once on the island, we hiked up to the top to a stunning viewpoint where we scoped out hundreds of Magnificent Frigatebirds, Red-footed and Brown Boobies, and a couple Red-billed Tropicbirds, while the trails provided a number of Trinidad Motmots. After a successful visit, we hopped back onto the boat picking up a single Bridled Tern before returning to the main island.
After yet another delicious home-cooked dinner, we walked outside to enjoy the resent White-tailed Nightjars that feed right in the driveway in front of our rooms.
The following morning, sadly our final full day of birding, we ventured into the Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve, which has the distinction for being the oldest legally protected forest. Here we made several stops along the road and hiked a couple trails into the forest. We saw our first Venezuelan Flycatchers, had a good number of Trindad Motmots, and a number of new species for our list such as Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plain Antvireo, Blue-backed Manakin, White-throated Spadebill, and the shy Yellow-legged Thrush.
Back at the hotel, after another delicious lunch, most of us opted for a walk down the entrance road to try and squeeze out a couple more new birds before the end of the trip. It started off slow, but quickly picked up. At one point our ears caught a Gray-throated Leaftosser calling nearby. This is an incredibly difficult bird to get on Trinidad, but after getting past a cow and a little bit of scrambling down a short hill, we were able to spot it sitting in some tangles singing away. What a success! A little while later we found a group of several Northern White-fringed Antwrens, which skulked from deep inside the vegetation, only to make a few brief appearances in a window into the vegetation. That night, we went to sleep to a Common Potoo calling from the balcony.
The final morning was a travel day as we worked our way back to the Tobago airport and ultimately back to Trinidad for our flights home. In all, the tour was quite successful where we saw nearly all of our targets, had a number of unexpected species, enjoyed delicious local cuisine, and saw a couple beautiful islands. It’s no wonder Trinidad & Tobago is such a popular destination.
- Ethan Kistler
Maximum group size 10 with one leader (and local guides).